Lycra Bike Shorts

Never wear underwear under your bike shorts! The materials used in pads today are designed to wick moisture, breathe and prevent bacteria growth. As such, bike shorts are much more sanitary than your underwear.

Additionally, the whole purpose of the short's pad is to prevent chafing. In order to work, the short must fit your body like a second skin. Having a layer of clothing between your body and your bike short will prevent the short from working the way that it should, and will increase your chances of experiencing chafing and sores where the underwear sits against your body.

What's more, if you ride regularly, you'll probably find that it's best to have at least two pairs of riding shorts because it'll ensure that you always have a clean pair to ride in.

Winter Wear

The most important factor in winter riding is proper clothing. If you dress too warmly, exertion will quickly lead to overheating and sweating; which can in turn lead to catching a chill and becoming very cold. Contrarily, insufficient clothing is also risky. If you leave the house and your core temperature drops too far, no amount of exertion will raise it. That's why it's crucial to check the thermometer before you leave and consider these four crucial areas when deciding what to wear: your head, torso, hands and feet.

Niagara here we come

Now for the next leg in this this trio, the Niagara tour will be a 1 day 75km ride. Lots of good times and the route is so flat.

WE DID IT!

Well the largest MS-Bike Tour Team for the Acton to Waterloo event road 110km on Saturday and 106km on Sunday to complete a wonderful ride along one of the best planned routes I have ever done in my 12 years as a participant. Thanks to all the sponsors and a huge thanks to our supporters!

Group RIde Sunday July 11th, 10:00

Group ride on Sunday July 11th. Barry's place is the starting point. 725 King Street West.

MEC Bikefest Sat. July 3rd, 2010

Along with fun and festivities, MEC Bikefest is a hub of knowledge where cyclists new and old can make connections and get the information they need to pursue their passion. Proceeds from this event will be donated to our non-profit partner,

http://images.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302888230&bmUID=1274209252241

Liberty Village

Cycling 101 Tips: #6 Your Interfaces

There are three main interfaces with your bike. 1. the Saddle 2. the Handlebar/grip 3. Pedals. I already talked about cleats so we can skip that.

Saddle
New riders like to find the widest most comfortable saddle (with the most padding). Just like they were sitting on the couch at home. Imagine wedging something really wide between your legs for hours and trying to walk around? not comfortable and neither is it for cycling. the idea of the saddle is to help provide a base of power for cycling and to help control the bike when not sitting on it. A wide saddle will interfere and eventually chafe. The other concept is the plushness of the saddle. The more padding that swishes around the more bunching and pressure points that this can cause on other areas. but to have a tiny racing saddle that is made of carbon fibre might be asking too much. So a reasonable width that will support your sit bones and allow free movement of your thighs is what I am talking about here. A sufficient amount of firm padding (hard in the store with your hands; but after miles on the road with your butt on it will make a huge difference)

Mountain bikers change their riding position a lot due to terrain so they can afford to have a more "comfortable" saddle. i use the WTB Speed V and the Laser V Team. And the WTB saddles are relatively cheap. my Speed V is an all synthetic saddle. I have found that regardless of the "love channel" or V-grove or cut-out in the middle of the saddle that it makes no real impact for me (your mileage may vary)

The Sit Bones play a vital role, the whole concept of cycling hinges on our ability to "toughen up" our sit bone area. Basically, this is the deadening of nerve endings where the sit bone area contacts the saddle. Doing then and then keeping them "dead" is what makes us able to ride more. How do we do this? First we ease ourselves in and then continue to ride, even for short periods to keep the pressure on those places. If you've been off the bike throughout the winter, your body will have to re-adjust all over again. This is not necessarily a bad thing; but it must be planned for. You may have to ride ever 2 days, since the next day would be very tender. You could also go the brute force route and just ride a 2hr ride 2 days in a row to help with the "deadening" of the nerves in your sit bone region.

On my road bike I have a Fizik Arione. It's nice and long and has long rails to accommodate a wide range of fore-aft positioning.

Women specific saddles are shorter and wider due to physiology.

Handlebars
Mountain bikers have thin palmed gloves to avoid bunching and pinching so some nice grips that afford grip and a level of comfort is nice; but too thick and you cannot get a full wrap of your fingers around the bars and you could easily lose grip when going over rough terrain. There are some that like ergon grips, they provide a nice flat area for your palm. some argue that the ergon grips reduce the amount of mobility you have on the bar when changing hand positions (like when you descend behind the saddle).

Road cyclists get a bar width that matches them first and then get tape to wrap around it. A cheap amount of extra padding is to get a second wrapping of tape. The hoods on the bars should be comfortable for both top of hood riding; but also allow you to reach the brake lever when in the drops. There are also gel pads that you can get to put under the tape to help alleviate pressure. But at the same time look at how you are leaning on the bar, maybe put more of your palm pad on or use the webbing in your hand more. Remember you should change position every so often.

Chain off?

Chain Fell Off? Shift It Back On! - No matter how carefully you shift, occasionally the chain may fall off the chainring. It's best to avoid handling the chain because you'll end up with grease all over your hands. Instead, you may be able to shift the chain back on. This isn't possible if it falls off when you're climbing a hill, because you lose your momentum and have to stop. But, anytime you're riding where you can coast for a few seconds, you can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedaling and shifting the front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring. Pedal slowly and lightly and the ring will grab and engage the chain and you'll be riding again as before. Voila! Chain fixed! No greasy tattoos! (If the chain jams, stop and manually reinstall it.) When a chain comes off repeatedly, something's wrong. Have us take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.

Thanks to http://trektoronto.ca/ for this tip

MS Society Training Rides

vent: Training Ride – D’Ornellas Bike Shop
Date: Sunday May 2, 2010
Location: 1894 Lawrence Ave. E. Scarborough
Time: 10 am
Rest Stop: MS staff members are available at the half-way mark to answer all your questions. See you at Woodbine Park!
Specials: 15% discount off all regular priced items at D’Ornellas for registered participants

Event: Training Ride – West End
Date: Sunday June 27, 2010
Location: 121 Edenbridge Dr., Toronto, James Gardens
Time: 10 am
Rest Stop: MS staff members are available at the half-way mark to answer all your questions. See you at West Humber Shore!

Spring ride

The temperature looked good and it has been dry so I set myself up to go trail riding today. But time constraints made me take off my hitch and unpack my gear and go for a road ride instead. I headed west; but their was a good tail wind so I re-routed back east. I put in an easy 26km ride out out with a nice fast zip home direct with a tail wind.

All is good.

With the forecast for rain tomorrow I guess it is back to the indoor trainer.

the temps did not fool me enough, I did wear arm warmers and a wind vest and rightfully so, I needed it all.

Spinning

Yeah, I did my first ever spinning class at the White Oaks Resort in Niagara-On-The-Lake. WOW, did that ever hurt. I was sweating in 10 minutes, so that is a good thing; but after 15mins I developed a terrible cramp in my calves that didn't go away for several days. I must really not be used to the fly wheel (fixie) slowing it down probably did me in. I do not think it was positioning.

I did have the saddle too low for a while.

One of the most annoying things with these cycle-ops spinners is the quick levers for adjusting the position. I thought they were really cool until I kept have to adjust my feet and thighs because they were hitting the lever. I kept on adjusting them; but never did feel comfortable with them (mentally trying to avoid them).

I followed up the next day with circuit class focused on core, that was good and I would do that again.

Cycling 101 Tips: #5 A Little Bit on Clothing

Adaptability is key. The old saying of dressing in Layers definitely applies. you can always wear TWO jerseys or TWO socks if you need to for example. Fit should be snug; but not binding. Remember you are moving through the wind and you do not want any "sails" to be put up.

Helmet
No one likes to mess up their hair; but it won't feel very good when you hit your head on the ground either. The helmet should fit low across your forehead. Some people like visors and some people cannot stand how they block their vision. Luckily visors can be adjusted for the most part. They help with the rain and with a strong sun. The straps should be TIGHT, to the point where you can't put more than 2 fingers beneath your chin almost to the point where you can feel it when you swallow. If it's not tight then there is no real point in wearing it as it will just move when you crash and you will still hit your head and the helmet won't do it's job. (pet peeve of mine).

I have cracked a helmet and was happy to go to the store the next day and get a new one. Because I could. I now have 3 helments, a Giro E2, Giro Zen and a new Bell Volt. Every helmet that I've bought is progressively more comfortable than the last. Having 2 helmets is nice for when you wash one or it was raining the day before.

Bicycle helmets are single impact devices, most companies have crash replacement policies and you get a discount when you bring it in.

There are many types and some fit some better than others, square heads, large heads, cone heads ... just try them all one and see how they fit. Nothing too heavy with a lot of vents is always good. I'm not a fan of black helmets, when subject your head to more heat from sunlight in the middle of August.

Eye wear
Most important when you are riding that you protect your eyes, you are going 20km per hour and an object shot up from someones tire is going at least that fast essentially doubling the speed as it impacts you eyeball. It's going to hurt and you could lose control and crash. Sunglasses are nice; but make sure they aren't too dark. In the shade it's not very effective. Trail riders, I like yellow or amber. some people like red lenses. No dark grey lenses trail riding. on the forest floor there are a lot of shadows where you won't be able to judge a rock or a log very easily. Road, I like wearing my polarized glasses; but always carry a change of lens for when i get caught at dusk getting home.

In or out? where do you put the arms of your eye wear. I put mine out, they aren't snugged up against my face and when you crash they will easily fly off your head. If they are inside the straps, when you crash they stay with you and drive into your face.

Gloves
They are for providing even grip on the bar. The palms are important because when you crash you reach out with your hands and the scrapes you get are painful. I like a sweat pad of some kind to wipe away ... sweat ... some like to use it as a snot rag too. (i.e. don't share gloves).

1/2 Finger gloves were invented for road riding; but you could use full finger or 1/2 finger gloves for either type of riding and not be laughed at. (unlike a riser bar with bar ends). The back has mesh to keep your hands cool and having a good wrist closure is important for some people. Being able to get the gloves off is also something to consider. Testing gloves requires a bar, just putting them on might not be comfortable, I search out a bike to grip to see how they really feel.

Full fingers gloves are for trail riding, they keep you from getting scrapes from thorns or branches. I like them because the finger tips are usually rubber coated and my sweaty fingers do not slip on the break levers. this is also handy for when it is raining on both road and trail rides. With a dry enough chain it's easy to just use your gloves to pull the chain back on (see my notes on wax and chain maintenance)

Shoes
Stiff soled shoes are best. For people going clipless, the stiff racing shoes are super stiff and could be uncomfortable on long rides. For trail riders, you also have hike-a-bike situations that you have to deal with. Some nice shoes are heavy; but they are comfortable to wear all day long. Mesh is good for ventilation in the summer. Road riders need only worry about the pedalling aspect, so super stiff and a nice snug fit (shifting around adds a lot of irritation). Trail riders have to think about how much they walk off their bike. Personally I use mountain shoes on my road bike since I can get off and walk plus the cost of another set of shoes and pedals turns me off. The important aspects of shoes, HEEL CUP, how your heel fits in your shoe and the heel lift when you are riding. Try it out, with your shoes on try standing on your toes and you can sense the amount that your foot comes out. Good shoes can really hold you in and some have cinches to wrap around the heel of your foot.

The insoles on the shoes are important just like on walking shoes. Thin insoles are best since the tight straps can pinch and cut off circulation. I'm a fan of the ratchet straps because they really hold on. velcro is ok; but if you get into a bog your foot will come out of the shoe and you might lose your shoe. ratchet straps are solid nylon (or metal) and can hold you in. Lace up shoes are good with a cover over them in the colder periods, the shoes from Lake for instance are really comfortable. I ride Sidi Dominator 5's because Sidi's come in 0.5 sizes (i.e. 45.5EUR)

If a 3/4 length shoe or hi-top came out I think I would get one; but some people don't like the ankle restrictions.

Shorts
No underwear or use specialized cycling underwear, these have no seams that will chafe and ruin your day. I like Peal Izumi shorts; but the idea here is just enough padding but non-bunching chamois. The idea is not to provide padding; but to reduce chaffing. The big difference in shorts is the chamois and the panel count, the more panels the more contoured the shape of the short. Sure there are some really cheap shorts out there that are made with lower quality lycra and if you are ok with the feel then all the power too you.

For super long rides, like the second day of the MS-Bike Tour, you can put on a second pair of shorts to give you additional comfort.

Chamois Cream, it has 2 purposes. 1. to help reduce chaffing 2. to add a little anti-bacterial cream to eliminate the possibility of a saddle sore. These Saddle Sores are the result of clogged pores from wearing shorts for hours on end.

DEET, the bug spray is BAD news for lycra, it dissolves the material so avoid it at all costs on your biking clothes.

Bib shorts? These shorts cost more but have built in suspenders. They are nice if you find that your shorts fall down or if you find the elastic drawstring irritates you (as it does me). I like bib shorts a lot; but they cost a lot more.

Try not to wear your shorts when you do not need to. When you are finished riding get out of them as soon as you can.

for more casual riding I have recently invested in baggy shorts, just so I can lounge around the park and not feel awkward. Some have a good liner too them. But this is just 2 pairs of shorts in one so they are heavier.

Jersey
I like a loose fit; but it's got to have at least one pocket in it. The race jerseys are too tight in the arms for me with their elastic cuffs. I like Raglan jerseys but they don't tend to come with the 3 back pockets. In these pockets you can carry your racing chit (24hrs racer heed this), spare food or tools and at night time the battery for you light source (again 24hr racers take note). A long front zipper is good to properly ventilate. Pro's wear a thin undershirt under their jerseys, it helps to transfer the moisture off of them (I only try this on temperate days, spring and fall)

I'm experimenting with using a base layer throughout the summer season. Reportedly to help keep you cooler by giving an extra layer for the moisture to pass back through to the jersey. I'll let you know how this works out for me; but from what I've read it's the way to go and besides, all the Pro's do it!

Vest
Next to your basic kit described above, a vest can save you. windproof in the front and vented in the back on a chilly morning it can really help and can be opened up to let air through or closed up around your neck to keep the heat in.

Arm & Leg warmers
Great add-ons that you can put on during a chilly morning or late evening and can take off and put into your back jersey pockets when you are warmed up.

Socks
I do not know of anyone that wears padded socks. Usually thin, ankle socks do the trick. Merino socks are great as they don't stink and they help keep your feet dry on all but the HOTTEST of days. Otherwise socks like the Pearl Izumi Attack Sock are just fine. I also use Velotique Ped socks, they are low cut so you don't get ankle tan, they are cheap and they are thin. They work great.

What About Cotton??
I do not know of any case wear you would want to do any type of sport in cotton, it gets you cold, it stretches and it stinks. I am a fan of Merino wool and on cool days a thin merino shirt and merino socks will help you a lot. So go with synthetic dry-fit type or wool.

Cycling 101 Tips: #4 Something about Maintenance

Tire Inflation
For road riders: the hardest tire is NOT the fastest tire. A tire that is properly inflated is one that provided you a firm cushion of suspension such that it can deform to some road obstacles and not allow the rim to touch the ground (causing the dreaded pinch or snake bite flat). Use the recommended tire pressure on the sidewall. Going too high and you risk blowing the tire off the rim during some high speed maneuver. I will run my tires around 100psi for example and also found that even 90psi can be used. 110psi can be very harsh and lead to a lot of jarring.

For Mountain Bikers: the hardest tire is NOT the fastest tire. The idea here is to have the softest tire possible that does not lead to a pinch flat or for the tire to roll off the rim (I've done both of these before). The idea here is traction and suspension. Your 2.0" tires offer a degree of suspension so that your 100mm of travel is actually more when combined with the tire, the more suspension the cushy the ride. The second point is traction (probably more important) a lower inflated tires offers a much wider contact patch to the ground and when climbing or descending it will make all the difference when you are about to spin out on the log or loose sand spot.

Tires do dry out and after exposure to UV rays they loose their stickiness.

Chain Lube
Use any lube you choose. I prefer was lubes as they are dry and do not attract as much dust and grit. You apply the lube the day before and let it soak in. the key to lubing a chain is that you want it inside the rollers and pins and not on the outer plates that we see. So I apply the lube the night before (since I'm using a wax) and then wipe off the plates completely before heading out.

What kind of lube, any good quality bike lube available at your LBS (local bike store). NO 3-in-1 oil or WD-40. Actually WD-40 is a great cleaner, use it as such. vegetable based oils collect gunk and clog up your drive train. Like I mentioned earlier I like using waxes (White Lightening Original Formula to be exact) because I find them to be a little cleaner; but you have to re-apply ever 2-3 rides.

When You Get Home
Basic TLC for your bike.

Suspension -- if you have suspension, use a clean rag and wipe down all the stanchions of dust.

Chain -- wipe down the chain and if they are dirty, the cassette and chain rings too. Drivetrain wear can cause havoc on future shifting.

Road bikes, check for cuts in the tires. spin the wheel and with a rag or glove on clean off the tire to see if you can find anything. the contact patch for a road bike is so small that you don't want to jeopardize your contact patch.

That's all you have to do. REALLY.

Periodically clean your bike, it helps you find problems before the next ride. Cracked rims or a loose spoke or even a cracked frame (what better reason to buy a new bike!). You'll find things you never would notice, like frayed cables ends or wear marks from your shoes that show that your cleats are out of alignment.

The Night Before
Your time is limited for riding so prepare and be ready so that you don't waste our precious good weather.

1. Pack your stuff in a bag and have it ready (i.e. get a gear bag)
2. Inflate your tires
3. get some good sleep

That's it you are ready to get out there at the last minute now because you are prepped and ready to roll.

Cycling 101 Tips: #3 Basic Fit

These are all baseline and are adjusted to your own body preferences.

Saddle Height: There are many scientific ways to determine saddle height. But the easiest starting position is to place your saddle at such a height so that when you are pedaling backwards with your HEELS on the pedals that you hips do not rock forcing you to bounce. This should give you as much as a 20 degree angle in your knee when you put your foot back in "ball over axle" position. Basically, you want to have a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at the bottom of its stroke. Some people with knee problems raise or lower the seat depending on their condition. A simple measure is: Pain the back means to high, pain in the front means it is too low.

As the season continues your saddle height can raise as much as 3/4" and at the start of next season you may find that you need to lower your saddle until your body remembers where it should be. Remember to write it down.

Saddle Angle: Start with it perfectly level. Some men like it slightly tilted up and some women like it tilted down. There are companies that feel that tilting it down will put more weight on your sit bones and alleviate numbness; but this can also increase pressure on your hands.

Saddle Fore-Aft: This can be subjective; but can really help people with neck or knee problems. The basic premise is to set the fore-aft position of the saddle such that a plumb-line dropped through your knee cap will bisect the pedal axle when the pedals are horizontal. Climbers like to position the saddle slightly rearward to give them more power and sprinters like to have it more forward to allow them higher RPMs (think of triatheletes)

Stem Reach: the length of the stem is very subjective. A long stem slows down the steering input and a short stem can make it quick (like a bus). But the stem is changed in 10mm increments to allow for proper fore after positioning. too little weight on the front and you pop a wheelie going up steep climbs. too much weight and you are spinning your rear tire when you need it on that climb. There is also an angle associated with the stem and this changes the effective reach of the stem (if you remember your geometry class from high school).

Flat/mtb Bars: Bar lengths, I am a huge proponent of wide bars to allow for leverage. Issues with this is tree clearance. Wide bars slow down your steering input to make tight spots easier to deal with. Narrow bars make the bike handle extremely nimble and very quick some people don't like this twitchiness. A typical bar is 22-26" in length. I am currently at 24.5" width and have no trouble with the trails we ride today. Also for people with bar ends, you need to allow for an extra 1" for the clamps of the ends.

Road Bars: have the drops area completely horizontal, some prefer to angle it up slightly to be perpendicular to your arms (I do this). I run a standard 18" wide bar; but I think I would like to get a wider bar just to feel like I'm opening up my chest cavity while riding.

Flat Bar sweep: I a huge proponent of sweep, I have 11 degrees of sweep to my bars; but some bars are as little as 3 degree. One thing that is CRITICAL is that the bar is set FLAT. Such that when looking at it sideways that the grip area is completely HORIZONTAL. I have run into too many people that have encountered wrist problems because of the bar angle.

The standard profile of any rider is a 45 degree angle along your FLAT back. Unless you are Lance Armstrong and have fused vertebrae your back should be relatively flat. Road riders/racers might like a lower position to gain more aerodynamic advantage; but loose a sight line advantage (like driving in an SUV). Casual riders like more upright riding but this tends to affect front end handling and can create more back and butt related issues as all your weight is only rear.

Approximately 20% of your weight is on the bars, any more and you could pinch nerves and cause numbness any less and you aren't helping your butt out. But ultimately 40% of your overall mass is set at the front wheel this will provide the most comfort for the ride.

Changes to fit need only be a few millimetres for your body to notice. Make small adjustments, ride for an hour or more and see how you feel. This process will feel never ending; but when you find the right formula you will be so happy that you made the effort.

Worn out Cleats

When was the last time you checked your cleats for wear? I took one of my bikes out today and found that I could too easily escape from my Time ATAC clipless pedals. It wasn't oil on the pedal or a loose cleat it was a worn out cleat to the point where I could easily fall out.

so if you think it is too easy for you to get our or too hard, considering getting a new or backup set up of cleats. If you read my previous posting you will have already marked your cleat position and this should be snap.

well I'm off to my LBS to get 2 new sets of cleats for my riding shoes. My winter shoes are still in good condition so no need to replace them just yet.

Cycling 101 Tips: #2 What to Bring Riding

Essential for ALL rides
1. Helmet
2. gloves, shoes, socks
3. eye protection (sunglasses not required)
4. spare tube (in a baggy and pre-talc'd, the zip-loc bag can come in handy)
5. patch kit (some like glueless and some don't, I use glueless)
6. inflation device (pump or CO2)
7. Tire levers (really you can get away with just one; but they break)
8. some form ID (just leave it in your bag, I use a hospital card)

(I leave 4-8 in my saddle bag at all times and I maintain various saddle bags for my road, and race and trail bike along with a back pack that I take on most trail rides)

Optional:
1. mini-tools (could be super small with 8 tools or 24 tools including a saw)
2. first aid kit (just a simple one for scrapes and/or slivers)
3. sock (handy rag and can be used to carry your tools and tube)
4. a second tube for those longer rides
5. change for phone or a cell phone
6. compass
7. rescue whistle
8. spare chain links (I always have a spare SRAM powerlink)
9. chain tool (if it's not part of your mini-tool)
10. strips of duct tape (or whatever you call that vinyl material gaffer/tank tape)

NUTRITION:
1-2hr ride
large water bottle (1 bottle for every hour of riding)
Generally that equates to about 500ml in temperate weather

3+ Hr rides
1L+ of water (4 water bottles) again depends on how hot it is and if you can find a place to fill-up
Nutrition - bar and a gel and a snack (1/2 PBJ bagel, granola bar, trail mix). My trail bag always has an emergency Hammer Gel and a bar of some kind. You never know when you have a breakdown and a 1hr ride turns into the 3hr ride.
Some might like salt tablets for really hot days

Some people like energy drinks. On longer rides I like to take at least one bottle full of Hammer HEED with me. It has complex carbohydrates and some electrolytes in it so I feel I am getting a little something more than just water. Others like to have a can of coke.

In my hydration bag I only carry water, it's universal and I don't have to worry about grunge build up from the sugars left in there.

For the car or ride kit bag:
1. Floor Pump
2. spare tire
3. change of clothes for after the ride (it might be wet or muddy)
4. a towel to use on the seat of your car

MEC Discounts

Mountain Equipment Co-op in Burlington is having a Cycling Night!

On Tuesday April 13 MEC Burlington will be open after hours. They are offering an in-store discount of 10% for all members of cycling or trail running groups which includes anyone signed up for or interested in signing up for the RONA MS Bike Tour.

Date: Tuesday April 13, 2010 Time: 7-9 pm Place: MEC Burlington, 1030 Brant St.

Just a reminder that MED is a co-operative: anyone can join MEC by buying a $5 lifetime membership share.

Cycling 101 Tips: #1 Your Feet

Cleat Positioning:
Do you have a sore Achilles, knee problems or experience numbness/hot spots on your feet while riding? It might have something to do with your cleat/foot position.

Basic Cleat setup (fore-aft): First find the ball of your foot. some find it by the protrusion at on this inside of you foot. You can also find this by standing up on your toes and the last part to leave the floor is the ball of your foot. This is your neutral position, it's the defacto starting position.

The concept is that while your crank arm is level to the ground that your forward facing foot has the ball of your foot directly over the centre of the pedal axle. This is the starting position and it works for a lot of people.

Riders that ride super long distances like to place the ball of their foot 1/4 inch forward of this to alleviate pressure. So much that there are cases where people have placed the cleat at the dead middle of their shoe by drilling new cleat holes into their carbon soles!

Triathletes and sprinters like their cleat position such that it places the ball of their foot forward of the pedal.

Side-to-side (float): most MTB pedals have some degree of float in them. Road pedals do not usually have much. This can have serious impact no your knees. But basic setup dictates that you want to ensure that you have ankle clearance from the crank arms (because it would hurt otherwise). So you should be trying to position them such that they are not floating to extremes or you will create premature cleat wear (and at $15 a set it's no fun).

This should be done while on a trainer or being held up by someone this will ensure proper positioning.

Note that changing cleat position can also affect your saddle height requirements.

REMEMBER: to make a note of the cleat position for when you next replace the cleat.

2010 Spring Bike Show

Well it moved the Better Living Centre, a little more cramped but all the fun of previous years. Deals to be had for all. What did you get?

Becel Ride for Heart

Something to get you on your bike and pedaling is a good thing.

http://www.rideforheart.ca/faf/home/ccp.asp?ievent=334877&lis=1&kntae334877=C3BBA08CF26F4CC290DFB793DAB9B28B&ccp=97184&utm_campaign=Registration&utm_medium=email&utm_source=HSFOMassReg&utm_content=Mar08

Toronto Spring Bicycle Show

Hey, the outdoor ice rinks are closing down and spring is almost here. That means that the Bike Show is back. March 5-7.

http://www.bicycleshowtoronto.com/springshow.html

There is also a 24-Hour spin session happening to raise money for Cancer. http://www.theinsideride.com/24hourspin/

Race Across The Sky

Have you seen it? One more showing in Feb. It is a good movie that show great determination and some fantastic and inspiring scenery. the $12.50 is a little steep however but at least you will know that everyone else with you is a bike fan of some sort.

Race Across the Sky - The Movie

Cineplex Entertainment and Citizen Pictures take movie audiences on a ride only the most intense cyclists have experienced – including seven-time Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong – as they compete in one of the world’s most grueling mountain bike races in Race Across the Sky – Leadville Trail 100. Shown exclusively in select Cineplex Entertainment theatres on Wednesday, January 27th and Sunday, February 7th, 2010, these special events will feature the debut of the documentary, “Race Across the Sky.”

http://www.raceacrossthesky.com/

Looking for indoor solutions

Hey folks, Cycle Solutions has opened up a new online shopping experience.

http://www.cycle-solutions.com/

Check them out, trainers and winter riding gear are all there plus maybe some good deals for the upcoming riding season!