Essential for ALL rides
1. Helmet
2. gloves, shoes, socks
3. eye protection (sunglasses not required)
4. spare tube (in a baggy and pre-talc'd, the zip-loc bag can come in handy)
5. patch kit (some like glueless and some don't, I use glueless)
6. inflation device (pump or CO2)
7. Tire levers (really you can get away with just one; but they break)
8. some form ID (just leave it in your bag, I use a hospital card)
(I leave 4-8 in my saddle bag at all times and I maintain various saddle bags for my road, and race and trail bike along with a back pack that I take on most trail rides)
Optional:
1. mini-tools (could be super small with 8 tools or 24 tools including a saw)
2. first aid kit (just a simple one for scrapes and/or slivers)
3. sock (handy rag and can be used to carry your tools and tube)
4. a second tube for those longer rides
5. change for phone or a cell phone
6. compass
7. rescue whistle
8. spare chain links (I always have a spare SRAM powerlink)
9. chain tool (if it's not part of your mini-tool)
10. strips of duct tape (or whatever you call that vinyl material gaffer/tank tape)
NUTRITION:
1-2hr ride
large water bottle (1 bottle for every hour of riding)
Generally that equates to about 500ml in temperate weather
3+ Hr rides
1L+ of water (4 water bottles) again depends on how hot it is and if you can find a place to fill-up
Nutrition - bar and a gel and a snack (1/2 PBJ bagel, granola bar, trail mix). My trail bag always has an emergency Hammer Gel and a bar of some kind. You never know when you have a breakdown and a 1hr ride turns into the 3hr ride.
Some might like salt tablets for really hot days
Some people like energy drinks. On longer rides I like to take at least one bottle full of Hammer HEED with me. It has complex carbohydrates and some electrolytes in it so I feel I am getting a little something more than just water. Others like to have a can of coke.
In my hydration bag I only carry water, it's universal and I don't have to worry about grunge build up from the sugars left in there.
For the car or ride kit bag:
1. Floor Pump
2. spare tire
3. change of clothes for after the ride (it might be wet or muddy)
4. a towel to use on the seat of your car
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
MEC Discounts
Mountain Equipment Co-op in Burlington is having a Cycling Night!
On Tuesday April 13 MEC Burlington will be open after hours. They are offering an in-store discount of 10% for all members of cycling or trail running groups which includes anyone signed up for or interested in signing up for the RONA MS Bike Tour.
Date: Tuesday April 13, 2010 Time: 7-9 pm Place: MEC Burlington, 1030 Brant St.
Just a reminder that MED is a co-operative: anyone can join MEC by buying a $5 lifetime membership share.
On Tuesday April 13 MEC Burlington will be open after hours. They are offering an in-store discount of 10% for all members of cycling or trail running groups which includes anyone signed up for or interested in signing up for the RONA MS Bike Tour.
Date: Tuesday April 13, 2010 Time: 7-9 pm Place: MEC Burlington, 1030 Brant St.
Just a reminder that MED is a co-operative: anyone can join MEC by buying a $5 lifetime membership share.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Cycling 101 Tips: #1 Your Feet
Cleat Positioning:
Do you have a sore Achilles, knee problems or experience numbness/hot spots on your feet while riding? It might have something to do with your cleat/foot position.
Basic Cleat setup (fore-aft): First find the ball of your foot. some find it by the protrusion at on this inside of you foot. You can also find this by standing up on your toes and the last part to leave the floor is the ball of your foot. This is your neutral position, it's the defacto starting position.
The concept is that while your crank arm is level to the ground that your forward facing foot has the ball of your foot directly over the centre of the pedal axle. This is the starting position and it works for a lot of people.
Riders that ride super long distances like to place the ball of their foot 1/4 inch forward of this to alleviate pressure. So much that there are cases where people have placed the cleat at the dead middle of their shoe by drilling new cleat holes into their carbon soles!
Triathletes and sprinters like their cleat position such that it places the ball of their foot forward of the pedal.
Side-to-side (float): most MTB pedals have some degree of float in them. Road pedals do not usually have much. This can have serious impact no your knees. But basic setup dictates that you want to ensure that you have ankle clearance from the crank arms (because it would hurt otherwise). So you should be trying to position them such that they are not floating to extremes or you will create premature cleat wear (and at $15 a set it's no fun).
This should be done while on a trainer or being held up by someone this will ensure proper positioning.
Note that changing cleat position can also affect your saddle height requirements.
REMEMBER: to make a note of the cleat position for when you next replace the cleat.
Do you have a sore Achilles, knee problems or experience numbness/hot spots on your feet while riding? It might have something to do with your cleat/foot position.
Basic Cleat setup (fore-aft): First find the ball of your foot. some find it by the protrusion at on this inside of you foot. You can also find this by standing up on your toes and the last part to leave the floor is the ball of your foot. This is your neutral position, it's the defacto starting position.
The concept is that while your crank arm is level to the ground that your forward facing foot has the ball of your foot directly over the centre of the pedal axle. This is the starting position and it works for a lot of people.
Riders that ride super long distances like to place the ball of their foot 1/4 inch forward of this to alleviate pressure. So much that there are cases where people have placed the cleat at the dead middle of their shoe by drilling new cleat holes into their carbon soles!
Triathletes and sprinters like their cleat position such that it places the ball of their foot forward of the pedal.
Side-to-side (float): most MTB pedals have some degree of float in them. Road pedals do not usually have much. This can have serious impact no your knees. But basic setup dictates that you want to ensure that you have ankle clearance from the crank arms (because it would hurt otherwise). So you should be trying to position them such that they are not floating to extremes or you will create premature cleat wear (and at $15 a set it's no fun).
This should be done while on a trainer or being held up by someone this will ensure proper positioning.
Note that changing cleat position can also affect your saddle height requirements.
REMEMBER: to make a note of the cleat position for when you next replace the cleat.
Monday, March 8, 2010
2010 Spring Bike Show
Well it moved the Better Living Centre, a little more cramped but all the fun of previous years. Deals to be had for all. What did you get?
Becel Ride for Heart
Something to get you on your bike and pedaling is a good thing.
http://www.rideforheart.ca/faf/home/ccp.asp?ievent=334877&lis=1&kntae334877=C3BBA08CF26F4CC290DFB793DAB9B28B&ccp=97184&utm_campaign=Registration&utm_medium=email&utm_source=HSFOMassReg&utm_content=Mar08
http://www.rideforheart.ca/faf/home/ccp.asp?ievent=334877&lis=1&kntae334877=C3BBA08CF26F4CC290DFB793DAB9B28B&ccp=97184&utm_campaign=Registration&utm_medium=email&utm_source=HSFOMassReg&utm_content=Mar08
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