Chain Fell Off? Shift It Back On! - No matter how carefully you shift, occasionally the chain may fall off the chainring. It's best to avoid handling the chain because you'll end up with grease all over your hands. Instead, you may be able to shift the chain back on. This isn't possible if it falls off when you're climbing a hill, because you lose your momentum and have to stop. But, anytime you're riding where you can coast for a few seconds, you can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedaling and shifting the front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring. Pedal slowly and lightly and the ring will grab and engage the chain and you'll be riding again as before. Voila! Chain fixed! No greasy tattoos! (If the chain jams, stop and manually reinstall it.) When a chain comes off repeatedly, something's wrong. Have us take a look at the front derailleur adjustment.
Thanks to http://trektoronto.ca/ for this tip
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Saturday, April 24, 2010
MS Society Training Rides
vent: Training Ride – D’Ornellas Bike Shop
Date: Sunday May 2, 2010
Location: 1894 Lawrence Ave. E. Scarborough
Time: 10 am
Rest Stop: MS staff members are available at the half-way mark to answer all your questions. See you at Woodbine Park!
Specials: 15% discount off all regular priced items at D’Ornellas for registered participants
Event: Training Ride – West End
Date: Sunday June 27, 2010
Location: 121 Edenbridge Dr., Toronto, James Gardens
Time: 10 am
Rest Stop: MS staff members are available at the half-way mark to answer all your questions. See you at West Humber Shore!
Date: Sunday May 2, 2010
Location: 1894 Lawrence Ave. E. Scarborough
Time: 10 am
Rest Stop: MS staff members are available at the half-way mark to answer all your questions. See you at Woodbine Park!
Specials: 15% discount off all regular priced items at D’Ornellas for registered participants
Event: Training Ride – West End
Date: Sunday June 27, 2010
Location: 121 Edenbridge Dr., Toronto, James Gardens
Time: 10 am
Rest Stop: MS staff members are available at the half-way mark to answer all your questions. See you at West Humber Shore!
Spring ride
The temperature looked good and it has been dry so I set myself up to go trail riding today. But time constraints made me take off my hitch and unpack my gear and go for a road ride instead. I headed west; but their was a good tail wind so I re-routed back east. I put in an easy 26km ride out out with a nice fast zip home direct with a tail wind.
All is good.
With the forecast for rain tomorrow I guess it is back to the indoor trainer.
the temps did not fool me enough, I did wear arm warmers and a wind vest and rightfully so, I needed it all.
All is good.
With the forecast for rain tomorrow I guess it is back to the indoor trainer.
the temps did not fool me enough, I did wear arm warmers and a wind vest and rightfully so, I needed it all.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Spinning
Yeah, I did my first ever spinning class at the White Oaks Resort in Niagara-On-The-Lake. WOW, did that ever hurt. I was sweating in 10 minutes, so that is a good thing; but after 15mins I developed a terrible cramp in my calves that didn't go away for several days. I must really not be used to the fly wheel (fixie) slowing it down probably did me in. I do not think it was positioning.
I did have the saddle too low for a while.
One of the most annoying things with these cycle-ops spinners is the quick levers for adjusting the position. I thought they were really cool until I kept have to adjust my feet and thighs because they were hitting the lever. I kept on adjusting them; but never did feel comfortable with them (mentally trying to avoid them).
I followed up the next day with circuit class focused on core, that was good and I would do that again.
I did have the saddle too low for a while.
One of the most annoying things with these cycle-ops spinners is the quick levers for adjusting the position. I thought they were really cool until I kept have to adjust my feet and thighs because they were hitting the lever. I kept on adjusting them; but never did feel comfortable with them (mentally trying to avoid them).
I followed up the next day with circuit class focused on core, that was good and I would do that again.
Cycling 101 Tips: #5 A Little Bit on Clothing
Adaptability is key. The old saying of dressing in Layers definitely applies. you can always wear TWO jerseys or TWO socks if you need to for example. Fit should be snug; but not binding. Remember you are moving through the wind and you do not want any "sails" to be put up.
Helmet
No one likes to mess up their hair; but it won't feel very good when you hit your head on the ground either. The helmet should fit low across your forehead. Some people like visors and some people cannot stand how they block their vision. Luckily visors can be adjusted for the most part. They help with the rain and with a strong sun. The straps should be TIGHT, to the point where you can't put more than 2 fingers beneath your chin almost to the point where you can feel it when you swallow. If it's not tight then there is no real point in wearing it as it will just move when you crash and you will still hit your head and the helmet won't do it's job. (pet peeve of mine).
I have cracked a helmet and was happy to go to the store the next day and get a new one. Because I could. I now have 3 helments, a Giro E2, Giro Zen and a new Bell Volt. Every helmet that I've bought is progressively more comfortable than the last. Having 2 helmets is nice for when you wash one or it was raining the day before.
Bicycle helmets are single impact devices, most companies have crash replacement policies and you get a discount when you bring it in.
There are many types and some fit some better than others, square heads, large heads, cone heads ... just try them all one and see how they fit. Nothing too heavy with a lot of vents is always good. I'm not a fan of black helmets, when subject your head to more heat from sunlight in the middle of August.
Eye wear
Most important when you are riding that you protect your eyes, you are going 20km per hour and an object shot up from someones tire is going at least that fast essentially doubling the speed as it impacts you eyeball. It's going to hurt and you could lose control and crash. Sunglasses are nice; but make sure they aren't too dark. In the shade it's not very effective. Trail riders, I like yellow or amber. some people like red lenses. No dark grey lenses trail riding. on the forest floor there are a lot of shadows where you won't be able to judge a rock or a log very easily. Road, I like wearing my polarized glasses; but always carry a change of lens for when i get caught at dusk getting home.
In or out? where do you put the arms of your eye wear. I put mine out, they aren't snugged up against my face and when you crash they will easily fly off your head. If they are inside the straps, when you crash they stay with you and drive into your face.
Gloves
They are for providing even grip on the bar. The palms are important because when you crash you reach out with your hands and the scrapes you get are painful. I like a sweat pad of some kind to wipe away ... sweat ... some like to use it as a snot rag too. (i.e. don't share gloves).
1/2 Finger gloves were invented for road riding; but you could use full finger or 1/2 finger gloves for either type of riding and not be laughed at. (unlike a riser bar with bar ends). The back has mesh to keep your hands cool and having a good wrist closure is important for some people. Being able to get the gloves off is also something to consider. Testing gloves requires a bar, just putting them on might not be comfortable, I search out a bike to grip to see how they really feel.
Full fingers gloves are for trail riding, they keep you from getting scrapes from thorns or branches. I like them because the finger tips are usually rubber coated and my sweaty fingers do not slip on the break levers. this is also handy for when it is raining on both road and trail rides. With a dry enough chain it's easy to just use your gloves to pull the chain back on (see my notes on wax and chain maintenance)
Shoes
Stiff soled shoes are best. For people going clipless, the stiff racing shoes are super stiff and could be uncomfortable on long rides. For trail riders, you also have hike-a-bike situations that you have to deal with. Some nice shoes are heavy; but they are comfortable to wear all day long. Mesh is good for ventilation in the summer. Road riders need only worry about the pedalling aspect, so super stiff and a nice snug fit (shifting around adds a lot of irritation). Trail riders have to think about how much they walk off their bike. Personally I use mountain shoes on my road bike since I can get off and walk plus the cost of another set of shoes and pedals turns me off. The important aspects of shoes, HEEL CUP, how your heel fits in your shoe and the heel lift when you are riding. Try it out, with your shoes on try standing on your toes and you can sense the amount that your foot comes out. Good shoes can really hold you in and some have cinches to wrap around the heel of your foot.
The insoles on the shoes are important just like on walking shoes. Thin insoles are best since the tight straps can pinch and cut off circulation. I'm a fan of the ratchet straps because they really hold on. velcro is ok; but if you get into a bog your foot will come out of the shoe and you might lose your shoe. ratchet straps are solid nylon (or metal) and can hold you in. Lace up shoes are good with a cover over them in the colder periods, the shoes from Lake for instance are really comfortable. I ride Sidi Dominator 5's because Sidi's come in 0.5 sizes (i.e. 45.5EUR)
If a 3/4 length shoe or hi-top came out I think I would get one; but some people don't like the ankle restrictions.
Shorts
No underwear or use specialized cycling underwear, these have no seams that will chafe and ruin your day. I like Peal Izumi shorts; but the idea here is just enough padding but non-bunching chamois. The idea is not to provide padding; but to reduce chaffing. The big difference in shorts is the chamois and the panel count, the more panels the more contoured the shape of the short. Sure there are some really cheap shorts out there that are made with lower quality lycra and if you are ok with the feel then all the power too you.
For super long rides, like the second day of the MS-Bike Tour, you can put on a second pair of shorts to give you additional comfort.
Chamois Cream, it has 2 purposes. 1. to help reduce chaffing 2. to add a little anti-bacterial cream to eliminate the possibility of a saddle sore. These Saddle Sores are the result of clogged pores from wearing shorts for hours on end.
DEET, the bug spray is BAD news for lycra, it dissolves the material so avoid it at all costs on your biking clothes.
Bib shorts? These shorts cost more but have built in suspenders. They are nice if you find that your shorts fall down or if you find the elastic drawstring irritates you (as it does me). I like bib shorts a lot; but they cost a lot more.
Try not to wear your shorts when you do not need to. When you are finished riding get out of them as soon as you can.
for more casual riding I have recently invested in baggy shorts, just so I can lounge around the park and not feel awkward. Some have a good liner too them. But this is just 2 pairs of shorts in one so they are heavier.
Jersey
I like a loose fit; but it's got to have at least one pocket in it. The race jerseys are too tight in the arms for me with their elastic cuffs. I like Raglan jerseys but they don't tend to come with the 3 back pockets. In these pockets you can carry your racing chit (24hrs racer heed this), spare food or tools and at night time the battery for you light source (again 24hr racers take note). A long front zipper is good to properly ventilate. Pro's wear a thin undershirt under their jerseys, it helps to transfer the moisture off of them (I only try this on temperate days, spring and fall)
I'm experimenting with using a base layer throughout the summer season. Reportedly to help keep you cooler by giving an extra layer for the moisture to pass back through to the jersey. I'll let you know how this works out for me; but from what I've read it's the way to go and besides, all the Pro's do it!
Vest
Next to your basic kit described above, a vest can save you. windproof in the front and vented in the back on a chilly morning it can really help and can be opened up to let air through or closed up around your neck to keep the heat in.
Arm & Leg warmers
Great add-ons that you can put on during a chilly morning or late evening and can take off and put into your back jersey pockets when you are warmed up.
Socks
I do not know of anyone that wears padded socks. Usually thin, ankle socks do the trick. Merino socks are great as they don't stink and they help keep your feet dry on all but the HOTTEST of days. Otherwise socks like the Pearl Izumi Attack Sock are just fine. I also use Velotique Ped socks, they are low cut so you don't get ankle tan, they are cheap and they are thin. They work great.
What About Cotton??
I do not know of any case wear you would want to do any type of sport in cotton, it gets you cold, it stretches and it stinks. I am a fan of Merino wool and on cool days a thin merino shirt and merino socks will help you a lot. So go with synthetic dry-fit type or wool.
Helmet
No one likes to mess up their hair; but it won't feel very good when you hit your head on the ground either. The helmet should fit low across your forehead. Some people like visors and some people cannot stand how they block their vision. Luckily visors can be adjusted for the most part. They help with the rain and with a strong sun. The straps should be TIGHT, to the point where you can't put more than 2 fingers beneath your chin almost to the point where you can feel it when you swallow. If it's not tight then there is no real point in wearing it as it will just move when you crash and you will still hit your head and the helmet won't do it's job. (pet peeve of mine).
I have cracked a helmet and was happy to go to the store the next day and get a new one. Because I could. I now have 3 helments, a Giro E2, Giro Zen and a new Bell Volt. Every helmet that I've bought is progressively more comfortable than the last. Having 2 helmets is nice for when you wash one or it was raining the day before.
Bicycle helmets are single impact devices, most companies have crash replacement policies and you get a discount when you bring it in.
There are many types and some fit some better than others, square heads, large heads, cone heads ... just try them all one and see how they fit. Nothing too heavy with a lot of vents is always good. I'm not a fan of black helmets, when subject your head to more heat from sunlight in the middle of August.
Eye wear
Most important when you are riding that you protect your eyes, you are going 20km per hour and an object shot up from someones tire is going at least that fast essentially doubling the speed as it impacts you eyeball. It's going to hurt and you could lose control and crash. Sunglasses are nice; but make sure they aren't too dark. In the shade it's not very effective. Trail riders, I like yellow or amber. some people like red lenses. No dark grey lenses trail riding. on the forest floor there are a lot of shadows where you won't be able to judge a rock or a log very easily. Road, I like wearing my polarized glasses; but always carry a change of lens for when i get caught at dusk getting home.
In or out? where do you put the arms of your eye wear. I put mine out, they aren't snugged up against my face and when you crash they will easily fly off your head. If they are inside the straps, when you crash they stay with you and drive into your face.
Gloves
They are for providing even grip on the bar. The palms are important because when you crash you reach out with your hands and the scrapes you get are painful. I like a sweat pad of some kind to wipe away ... sweat ... some like to use it as a snot rag too. (i.e. don't share gloves).
1/2 Finger gloves were invented for road riding; but you could use full finger or 1/2 finger gloves for either type of riding and not be laughed at. (unlike a riser bar with bar ends). The back has mesh to keep your hands cool and having a good wrist closure is important for some people. Being able to get the gloves off is also something to consider. Testing gloves requires a bar, just putting them on might not be comfortable, I search out a bike to grip to see how they really feel.
Full fingers gloves are for trail riding, they keep you from getting scrapes from thorns or branches. I like them because the finger tips are usually rubber coated and my sweaty fingers do not slip on the break levers. this is also handy for when it is raining on both road and trail rides. With a dry enough chain it's easy to just use your gloves to pull the chain back on (see my notes on wax and chain maintenance)
Shoes
Stiff soled shoes are best. For people going clipless, the stiff racing shoes are super stiff and could be uncomfortable on long rides. For trail riders, you also have hike-a-bike situations that you have to deal with. Some nice shoes are heavy; but they are comfortable to wear all day long. Mesh is good for ventilation in the summer. Road riders need only worry about the pedalling aspect, so super stiff and a nice snug fit (shifting around adds a lot of irritation). Trail riders have to think about how much they walk off their bike. Personally I use mountain shoes on my road bike since I can get off and walk plus the cost of another set of shoes and pedals turns me off. The important aspects of shoes, HEEL CUP, how your heel fits in your shoe and the heel lift when you are riding. Try it out, with your shoes on try standing on your toes and you can sense the amount that your foot comes out. Good shoes can really hold you in and some have cinches to wrap around the heel of your foot.
The insoles on the shoes are important just like on walking shoes. Thin insoles are best since the tight straps can pinch and cut off circulation. I'm a fan of the ratchet straps because they really hold on. velcro is ok; but if you get into a bog your foot will come out of the shoe and you might lose your shoe. ratchet straps are solid nylon (or metal) and can hold you in. Lace up shoes are good with a cover over them in the colder periods, the shoes from Lake for instance are really comfortable. I ride Sidi Dominator 5's because Sidi's come in 0.5 sizes (i.e. 45.5EUR)
If a 3/4 length shoe or hi-top came out I think I would get one; but some people don't like the ankle restrictions.
Shorts
No underwear or use specialized cycling underwear, these have no seams that will chafe and ruin your day. I like Peal Izumi shorts; but the idea here is just enough padding but non-bunching chamois. The idea is not to provide padding; but to reduce chaffing. The big difference in shorts is the chamois and the panel count, the more panels the more contoured the shape of the short. Sure there are some really cheap shorts out there that are made with lower quality lycra and if you are ok with the feel then all the power too you.
For super long rides, like the second day of the MS-Bike Tour, you can put on a second pair of shorts to give you additional comfort.
Chamois Cream, it has 2 purposes. 1. to help reduce chaffing 2. to add a little anti-bacterial cream to eliminate the possibility of a saddle sore. These Saddle Sores are the result of clogged pores from wearing shorts for hours on end.
DEET, the bug spray is BAD news for lycra, it dissolves the material so avoid it at all costs on your biking clothes.
Bib shorts? These shorts cost more but have built in suspenders. They are nice if you find that your shorts fall down or if you find the elastic drawstring irritates you (as it does me). I like bib shorts a lot; but they cost a lot more.
Try not to wear your shorts when you do not need to. When you are finished riding get out of them as soon as you can.
for more casual riding I have recently invested in baggy shorts, just so I can lounge around the park and not feel awkward. Some have a good liner too them. But this is just 2 pairs of shorts in one so they are heavier.
Jersey
I like a loose fit; but it's got to have at least one pocket in it. The race jerseys are too tight in the arms for me with their elastic cuffs. I like Raglan jerseys but they don't tend to come with the 3 back pockets. In these pockets you can carry your racing chit (24hrs racer heed this), spare food or tools and at night time the battery for you light source (again 24hr racers take note). A long front zipper is good to properly ventilate. Pro's wear a thin undershirt under their jerseys, it helps to transfer the moisture off of them (I only try this on temperate days, spring and fall)
I'm experimenting with using a base layer throughout the summer season. Reportedly to help keep you cooler by giving an extra layer for the moisture to pass back through to the jersey. I'll let you know how this works out for me; but from what I've read it's the way to go and besides, all the Pro's do it!
Vest
Next to your basic kit described above, a vest can save you. windproof in the front and vented in the back on a chilly morning it can really help and can be opened up to let air through or closed up around your neck to keep the heat in.
Arm & Leg warmers
Great add-ons that you can put on during a chilly morning or late evening and can take off and put into your back jersey pockets when you are warmed up.
Socks
I do not know of anyone that wears padded socks. Usually thin, ankle socks do the trick. Merino socks are great as they don't stink and they help keep your feet dry on all but the HOTTEST of days. Otherwise socks like the Pearl Izumi Attack Sock are just fine. I also use Velotique Ped socks, they are low cut so you don't get ankle tan, they are cheap and they are thin. They work great.
What About Cotton??
I do not know of any case wear you would want to do any type of sport in cotton, it gets you cold, it stretches and it stinks. I am a fan of Merino wool and on cool days a thin merino shirt and merino socks will help you a lot. So go with synthetic dry-fit type or wool.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Cycling 101 Tips: #4 Something about Maintenance
Tire Inflation
For road riders: the hardest tire is NOT the fastest tire. A tire that is properly inflated is one that provided you a firm cushion of suspension such that it can deform to some road obstacles and not allow the rim to touch the ground (causing the dreaded pinch or snake bite flat). Use the recommended tire pressure on the sidewall. Going too high and you risk blowing the tire off the rim during some high speed maneuver. I will run my tires around 100psi for example and also found that even 90psi can be used. 110psi can be very harsh and lead to a lot of jarring.
For Mountain Bikers: the hardest tire is NOT the fastest tire. The idea here is to have the softest tire possible that does not lead to a pinch flat or for the tire to roll off the rim (I've done both of these before). The idea here is traction and suspension. Your 2.0" tires offer a degree of suspension so that your 100mm of travel is actually more when combined with the tire, the more suspension the cushy the ride. The second point is traction (probably more important) a lower inflated tires offers a much wider contact patch to the ground and when climbing or descending it will make all the difference when you are about to spin out on the log or loose sand spot.
Tires do dry out and after exposure to UV rays they loose their stickiness.
Chain Lube
Use any lube you choose. I prefer was lubes as they are dry and do not attract as much dust and grit. You apply the lube the day before and let it soak in. the key to lubing a chain is that you want it inside the rollers and pins and not on the outer plates that we see. So I apply the lube the night before (since I'm using a wax) and then wipe off the plates completely before heading out.
What kind of lube, any good quality bike lube available at your LBS (local bike store). NO 3-in-1 oil or WD-40. Actually WD-40 is a great cleaner, use it as such. vegetable based oils collect gunk and clog up your drive train. Like I mentioned earlier I like using waxes (White Lightening Original Formula to be exact) because I find them to be a little cleaner; but you have to re-apply ever 2-3 rides.
When You Get Home
Basic TLC for your bike.
Suspension -- if you have suspension, use a clean rag and wipe down all the stanchions of dust.
Chain -- wipe down the chain and if they are dirty, the cassette and chain rings too. Drivetrain wear can cause havoc on future shifting.
Road bikes, check for cuts in the tires. spin the wheel and with a rag or glove on clean off the tire to see if you can find anything. the contact patch for a road bike is so small that you don't want to jeopardize your contact patch.
That's all you have to do. REALLY.
Periodically clean your bike, it helps you find problems before the next ride. Cracked rims or a loose spoke or even a cracked frame (what better reason to buy a new bike!). You'll find things you never would notice, like frayed cables ends or wear marks from your shoes that show that your cleats are out of alignment.
The Night Before
Your time is limited for riding so prepare and be ready so that you don't waste our precious good weather.
1. Pack your stuff in a bag and have it ready (i.e. get a gear bag)
2. Inflate your tires
3. get some good sleep
That's it you are ready to get out there at the last minute now because you are prepped and ready to roll.
For road riders: the hardest tire is NOT the fastest tire. A tire that is properly inflated is one that provided you a firm cushion of suspension such that it can deform to some road obstacles and not allow the rim to touch the ground (causing the dreaded pinch or snake bite flat). Use the recommended tire pressure on the sidewall. Going too high and you risk blowing the tire off the rim during some high speed maneuver. I will run my tires around 100psi for example and also found that even 90psi can be used. 110psi can be very harsh and lead to a lot of jarring.
For Mountain Bikers: the hardest tire is NOT the fastest tire. The idea here is to have the softest tire possible that does not lead to a pinch flat or for the tire to roll off the rim (I've done both of these before). The idea here is traction and suspension. Your 2.0" tires offer a degree of suspension so that your 100mm of travel is actually more when combined with the tire, the more suspension the cushy the ride. The second point is traction (probably more important) a lower inflated tires offers a much wider contact patch to the ground and when climbing or descending it will make all the difference when you are about to spin out on the log or loose sand spot.
Tires do dry out and after exposure to UV rays they loose their stickiness.
Chain Lube
Use any lube you choose. I prefer was lubes as they are dry and do not attract as much dust and grit. You apply the lube the day before and let it soak in. the key to lubing a chain is that you want it inside the rollers and pins and not on the outer plates that we see. So I apply the lube the night before (since I'm using a wax) and then wipe off the plates completely before heading out.
What kind of lube, any good quality bike lube available at your LBS (local bike store). NO 3-in-1 oil or WD-40. Actually WD-40 is a great cleaner, use it as such. vegetable based oils collect gunk and clog up your drive train. Like I mentioned earlier I like using waxes (White Lightening Original Formula to be exact) because I find them to be a little cleaner; but you have to re-apply ever 2-3 rides.
When You Get Home
Basic TLC for your bike.
Suspension -- if you have suspension, use a clean rag and wipe down all the stanchions of dust.
Chain -- wipe down the chain and if they are dirty, the cassette and chain rings too. Drivetrain wear can cause havoc on future shifting.
Road bikes, check for cuts in the tires. spin the wheel and with a rag or glove on clean off the tire to see if you can find anything. the contact patch for a road bike is so small that you don't want to jeopardize your contact patch.
That's all you have to do. REALLY.
Periodically clean your bike, it helps you find problems before the next ride. Cracked rims or a loose spoke or even a cracked frame (what better reason to buy a new bike!). You'll find things you never would notice, like frayed cables ends or wear marks from your shoes that show that your cleats are out of alignment.
The Night Before
Your time is limited for riding so prepare and be ready so that you don't waste our precious good weather.
1. Pack your stuff in a bag and have it ready (i.e. get a gear bag)
2. Inflate your tires
3. get some good sleep
That's it you are ready to get out there at the last minute now because you are prepped and ready to roll.
Monday, April 5, 2010
Cycling 101 Tips: #3 Basic Fit
These are all baseline and are adjusted to your own body preferences.
Saddle Height: There are many scientific ways to determine saddle height. But the easiest starting position is to place your saddle at such a height so that when you are pedaling backwards with your HEELS on the pedals that you hips do not rock forcing you to bounce. This should give you as much as a 20 degree angle in your knee when you put your foot back in "ball over axle" position. Basically, you want to have a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at the bottom of its stroke. Some people with knee problems raise or lower the seat depending on their condition. A simple measure is: Pain the back means to high, pain in the front means it is too low.
As the season continues your saddle height can raise as much as 3/4" and at the start of next season you may find that you need to lower your saddle until your body remembers where it should be. Remember to write it down.
Saddle Angle: Start with it perfectly level. Some men like it slightly tilted up and some women like it tilted down. There are companies that feel that tilting it down will put more weight on your sit bones and alleviate numbness; but this can also increase pressure on your hands.
Saddle Fore-Aft: This can be subjective; but can really help people with neck or knee problems. The basic premise is to set the fore-aft position of the saddle such that a plumb-line dropped through your knee cap will bisect the pedal axle when the pedals are horizontal. Climbers like to position the saddle slightly rearward to give them more power and sprinters like to have it more forward to allow them higher RPMs (think of triatheletes)
Stem Reach: the length of the stem is very subjective. A long stem slows down the steering input and a short stem can make it quick (like a bus). But the stem is changed in 10mm increments to allow for proper fore after positioning. too little weight on the front and you pop a wheelie going up steep climbs. too much weight and you are spinning your rear tire when you need it on that climb. There is also an angle associated with the stem and this changes the effective reach of the stem (if you remember your geometry class from high school).
Flat/mtb Bars: Bar lengths, I am a huge proponent of wide bars to allow for leverage. Issues with this is tree clearance. Wide bars slow down your steering input to make tight spots easier to deal with. Narrow bars make the bike handle extremely nimble and very quick some people don't like this twitchiness. A typical bar is 22-26" in length. I am currently at 24.5" width and have no trouble with the trails we ride today. Also for people with bar ends, you need to allow for an extra 1" for the clamps of the ends.
Road Bars: have the drops area completely horizontal, some prefer to angle it up slightly to be perpendicular to your arms (I do this). I run a standard 18" wide bar; but I think I would like to get a wider bar just to feel like I'm opening up my chest cavity while riding.
Flat Bar sweep: I a huge proponent of sweep, I have 11 degrees of sweep to my bars; but some bars are as little as 3 degree. One thing that is CRITICAL is that the bar is set FLAT. Such that when looking at it sideways that the grip area is completely HORIZONTAL. I have run into too many people that have encountered wrist problems because of the bar angle.
The standard profile of any rider is a 45 degree angle along your FLAT back. Unless you are Lance Armstrong and have fused vertebrae your back should be relatively flat. Road riders/racers might like a lower position to gain more aerodynamic advantage; but loose a sight line advantage (like driving in an SUV). Casual riders like more upright riding but this tends to affect front end handling and can create more back and butt related issues as all your weight is only rear.
Approximately 20% of your weight is on the bars, any more and you could pinch nerves and cause numbness any less and you aren't helping your butt out. But ultimately 40% of your overall mass is set at the front wheel this will provide the most comfort for the ride.
Changes to fit need only be a few millimetres for your body to notice. Make small adjustments, ride for an hour or more and see how you feel. This process will feel never ending; but when you find the right formula you will be so happy that you made the effort.
Saddle Height: There are many scientific ways to determine saddle height. But the easiest starting position is to place your saddle at such a height so that when you are pedaling backwards with your HEELS on the pedals that you hips do not rock forcing you to bounce. This should give you as much as a 20 degree angle in your knee when you put your foot back in "ball over axle" position. Basically, you want to have a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at the bottom of its stroke. Some people with knee problems raise or lower the seat depending on their condition. A simple measure is: Pain the back means to high, pain in the front means it is too low.
As the season continues your saddle height can raise as much as 3/4" and at the start of next season you may find that you need to lower your saddle until your body remembers where it should be. Remember to write it down.
Saddle Angle: Start with it perfectly level. Some men like it slightly tilted up and some women like it tilted down. There are companies that feel that tilting it down will put more weight on your sit bones and alleviate numbness; but this can also increase pressure on your hands.
Saddle Fore-Aft: This can be subjective; but can really help people with neck or knee problems. The basic premise is to set the fore-aft position of the saddle such that a plumb-line dropped through your knee cap will bisect the pedal axle when the pedals are horizontal. Climbers like to position the saddle slightly rearward to give them more power and sprinters like to have it more forward to allow them higher RPMs (think of triatheletes)
Stem Reach: the length of the stem is very subjective. A long stem slows down the steering input and a short stem can make it quick (like a bus). But the stem is changed in 10mm increments to allow for proper fore after positioning. too little weight on the front and you pop a wheelie going up steep climbs. too much weight and you are spinning your rear tire when you need it on that climb. There is also an angle associated with the stem and this changes the effective reach of the stem (if you remember your geometry class from high school).
Flat/mtb Bars: Bar lengths, I am a huge proponent of wide bars to allow for leverage. Issues with this is tree clearance. Wide bars slow down your steering input to make tight spots easier to deal with. Narrow bars make the bike handle extremely nimble and very quick some people don't like this twitchiness. A typical bar is 22-26" in length. I am currently at 24.5" width and have no trouble with the trails we ride today. Also for people with bar ends, you need to allow for an extra 1" for the clamps of the ends.
Road Bars: have the drops area completely horizontal, some prefer to angle it up slightly to be perpendicular to your arms (I do this). I run a standard 18" wide bar; but I think I would like to get a wider bar just to feel like I'm opening up my chest cavity while riding.
Flat Bar sweep: I a huge proponent of sweep, I have 11 degrees of sweep to my bars; but some bars are as little as 3 degree. One thing that is CRITICAL is that the bar is set FLAT. Such that when looking at it sideways that the grip area is completely HORIZONTAL. I have run into too many people that have encountered wrist problems because of the bar angle.
The standard profile of any rider is a 45 degree angle along your FLAT back. Unless you are Lance Armstrong and have fused vertebrae your back should be relatively flat. Road riders/racers might like a lower position to gain more aerodynamic advantage; but loose a sight line advantage (like driving in an SUV). Casual riders like more upright riding but this tends to affect front end handling and can create more back and butt related issues as all your weight is only rear.
Approximately 20% of your weight is on the bars, any more and you could pinch nerves and cause numbness any less and you aren't helping your butt out. But ultimately 40% of your overall mass is set at the front wheel this will provide the most comfort for the ride.
Changes to fit need only be a few millimetres for your body to notice. Make small adjustments, ride for an hour or more and see how you feel. This process will feel never ending; but when you find the right formula you will be so happy that you made the effort.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Worn out Cleats
When was the last time you checked your cleats for wear? I took one of my bikes out today and found that I could too easily escape from my Time ATAC clipless pedals. It wasn't oil on the pedal or a loose cleat it was a worn out cleat to the point where I could easily fall out.
so if you think it is too easy for you to get our or too hard, considering getting a new or backup set up of cleats. If you read my previous posting you will have already marked your cleat position and this should be snap.
well I'm off to my LBS to get 2 new sets of cleats for my riding shoes. My winter shoes are still in good condition so no need to replace them just yet.
so if you think it is too easy for you to get our or too hard, considering getting a new or backup set up of cleats. If you read my previous posting you will have already marked your cleat position and this should be snap.
well I'm off to my LBS to get 2 new sets of cleats for my riding shoes. My winter shoes are still in good condition so no need to replace them just yet.
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